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After visiting Japan almost every year since 2017, I have grown accustomed to the subtle rhythms of its seasons and the unique character of each region. This year, I ventured for the second time to Karuizawa, a mountain town that has long intrigued me with its serene landscapes and refined yet relaxed atmosphere..
While my previous trips focused on Japan’s cities and historic sites, staying at Mampei Hotel introduced me to a side of the country where nature, history, and leisure converge in an elegant harmony. Karuizawa is much more than a seasonal retreat. Nestled at the foot of Mount Asama, the town has served as a summer destination for centuries, attracting visitors seeking a respite from the heat of Tokyo. Its streets are lined with boutique shops, cafés, and galleries, while the surrounding forests, rivers, and mountains provide a quiet playground for outdoor exploration.
Arriving at Mampei Hotel for the first time was an experience of both anticipation and delight. Founded in 1894, the hotel has a storied history that aligns with Karuizawa’s development as a refined resort town. Its walls have welcomed artists, writers, and travelers for more than a century, creating a sense of timelessness that permeates every corner.
The architecture reflects this heritage, with large windows framing the gardens and mountains beyond. Wooden beams, traditional detailing, and soft neutral tones combine to create an environment that feels simultaneously historic and alive in the present. From the moment I stepped into the lobby, I felt a sense of calm and refinement. Unlike typical hotels, where luxury can sometimes feel staged, Mampei conveys elegance naturally, through attention to proportion, material, and light.
One of the most distinctive features is the stained-glass artwork illuminating the public areas, adding warmth and artistry that seamlessly blend with the hotel’s atmosphere. Equally captivating is The Gallery, where rotating exhibitions bring together art and history, offering guests an additional layer of cultural discovery within the hotel itself.
Mampei Hotel also houses a boutique shop that offers carefully selected items, ranging from artisanal crafts to exclusive gifts. A special highlight is the hotel’s own fragrance, designed to capture its refined spirit. This signature scent, subtle yet memorable, lingers softly throughout the hotel, making the stay an experience not only for the eyes and palate but also for the senses.
My room at Mampei was an introduction to the hotel’s meticulous balance of tradition and modern comfort. Mampei offers a range of room categories, some suites feature private in-room onsen baths, allowing guests to experience one of Japan’s most cherished rituals in complete privacy and comfort. A soothing way to end a day in the crisp mountain air.
Another refined touch is the hotel’s collaboration with Molton Brown London. Guests are invited to enjoy luxury amenities during their stay and receive a voucher redeemable at the Molton Brown store in Karuizawa Plaza Station, where a small surprise awaits. This thoughtful gesture adds a cosmopolitan elegance that pairs beautifully with Mampei’s historical roots.
One of the highlights of my stay was the culinary experience. Breakfast, served in the main dining room, combines seasonal local produce with a refined approach to traditional flavors. Freshly baked breads, seasonal fruits, grilled fish, and perfectly steamed rice created a morning that felt both nourishing and celebratory.
Dinner at Mampei carries a similar attention to seasonality and detail. Using locally sourced ingredients, the chefs craft dishes that showcase the region’s flavors in a subtle, sophisticated manner. From small appetizers to carefully presented mains, each dish felt thoughtful and connected to both the land and the moment. Dining here is not only about taste but about engaging with Karuizawa’s rhythms, the seasonal produce, and the hotel’s history.
Dinner is served in the Dining Room, whose refined atmosphere perfectly frames the Keyaki menu. A special highlight is the chilled peach soup, a signature dish that has been on the menu for over 30 years and remains a guest favorite. This emblematic recipe represents Mampei’s balance of tradition and innovation. Paired with delicately prepared fish, tender local meats, and elegantly plated desserts, dining is not just a meal but an immersion into the spirit of Karuizawa.
Beyond Mampei’s gardens, Karuizawa offers countless ways to explore and unwind. The famous Kyu-Karuizawa Ginza Street invites visitors to stroll past boutique shops, antique stores, and local cafés, while Kumoba Pond, often called “Swan Lake”, is breathtaking in autumn with its fiery foliage reflected on still waters.
Spiritual travelers will find calm at Karuizawa Shaw Memorial Chapel and nearby shrines nestled in the forest, offering both cultural significance and serene beauty. For the more active, cycling routes and hiking trails provide panoramic views of Mount Asama and the surrounding valleys. Each walk or ride feels like a dialogue with the landscape, rewarding attention and patience.
Experiencing Mampei Hotel for the first time was a revelation. The combination of the hotel’s history, the thoughtful design of its rooms and gardens, and the culinary attention to detail created an experience that felt both new and familiar. Karuizawa’s autumnal beauty provided the perfect backdrop, and each day offered a sense of quiet discovery.
From morning reflections by the window to exploring the streets and forests, staying at Mampei allowed me to connect to the region in a way that felt deeply personal. The hotel does not demand attention, rather, it offers subtle guidance, inviting guests to notice, reflect, and appreciate. For me, this is what sets a truly memorable stay apart from a standard luxury hotel. A complimentary shuttle from and to Karuizawa Station is available for guests (advance reservation required), making the journey both seamless and comfortable.
Mampei Hotel in Karuizawa is more than a place to stay, it is a lens through which to experience the town and its surroundings. The hotel’s history, elegance, and attention to detail provide the perfect complement to Karuizawa’s autumn landscapes. Whether wandering the streets lined with boutiques, cycling through fiery forests, or savoring meals that honor the season and region, a stay at Mampei offers a layered, immersive way to experience one of Japan’s most refined mountain towns.
My first visit to this hotel and this town reaffirmed why Japan continues to be a place of discovery, even after multiple trips and familiar cities. Karuizawa, feels timeless, and Mampei Hotel ensures that every moment there is observed, appreciated, and remembered.
